Join us as we explore the journey of cotton, from harvest to distribution
Cotton has clothed humanity for millennia, with the oldest evidence of cotton clothing dating all the way back to 5000 BCE. Many ancient civilisations independently discovered cotton and used it to make fabric, making it one of the oldest known textiles.
We have since progressed from spinning and weaving wild cotton. Selective breeding has been used throughout more recent history to improve the characteristics of this plant, and the industrial revolution brought the machinery needed to process the material more efficiently. The early 20th century mechanised harvesting and processing, and the later 20th and early 21st centuries introduced genetically modified cotton, which improved yields and pest resistance.
Now, the focus is on minimising the environmental impact of cotton farming and production. Cotton is still used as a common, versatile textile, but organic farming and water management are increasingly important. This reflects humanity’s ongoing need for cotton amid the need for environmental protection.
The cotton plant itself, while fluffy and soft, is pretty humble. You would be forgiven for wondering how on earth such a plant has dominated the textile industry since…well, before it was an industry! The answer lies in cotton’s ability to be processed, spun, weaved, and dyed. Let’s take a look at cotton’s journey from plants to pants (or just about any other item of clothing!).
Harvesting
Like all great plant-based products, the first stage of cotton’s journey starts when it is harvested. Once the plant has flowered, the bloom falls and is replaced by a cotton boll, which gradually opens as the cotton inside grows and matures. Eventually, this boll splits open, revealing the fluffy, white fibres within, and the plant is ready to harvest.
Harvesting can be done by hand, by plucking the fibres from the plant, or it can be done mechanically. Machines like stripper harvesters and spindle pickers can be used to remove the cotton fibres from the bolls, making the process much faster than harvesting by hand.
Ginning
Once harvested, the cotton is dried. The fibres are separated from the cotton seeds with a gin. Sadly, this process is not quite as fun as it sounds. While you and I may see the word “gin” and immediately follow it with the words “…and tonic”, it is my sad duty to inform you that the cotton gin is a machine, with “cotton gin” being a shortened version of “cotton engine”.
Modern cotton gins dry the cotton to remove moisture. They then break up the cotton clumps with a number of spiked rotating cylinders. Screens are used to filter out soil and leaves, and centrifugal force is used to separate out larger unwanted materials, like sticks.
Next, the machine processes the cotton with “ginning ribs,” which remove the seeds from the fibres. The extracted seeds are saved, and they will later be either planted or sent to a mill to be processed into oil or meal.
At this point, the cotton is nearly fully cleaned. The lint cleaners in the machine will use saws and grid bars to filter out any remaining young seeds and foreign matter. The cotton is then compressed into bales, ready for the next step in its journey.
Spinning
The spinning stage is an important step. The cleaned cotton fibres, now called slivers, are twisted and narrowed to create fine ropes. This stage is where the cotton begins to take on different properties, depending on how it is processed, that will affect the fabric it becomes. Fibres that are twisted more will lead to a softer textile at the end of the process.
Weaving and Knitting
Depending on the desired result, the spun cotton is either woven or knitted to create fabric. Knitting involves looping the yarns together, and the resulting material is flexible and stretchy. Cotton knits are often used in things like t-shirts, sportswear, and pyjamas, as it is a comfortable fabric that moves well with the body.
When woven, cotton takes on a much more stable quality. Woven cotton is usually made using a loom. The loom holds the warp threads (the threads that run vertically) taut, allowing the weaver to weave the weft (horizontal) threads over and under them to create fabric. There are many types of loom; some are fully mechanised, while others are operated entirely by hand. There is evidence that looms were used in ancient Egypt, around 4400 BCE, and their early use has been documented across the globe, showing that humans the world over have been weaving cotton for millennia.
Dyeing
At this point in the process, we have a useable fabric. However, the journey doesn’t stop here. Cotton is naturally a while substance, so dye is used to create different colours and patterns. Dyeing can take numerous forms, but the most common is to submerge the fabric in a hot dye solution and then squeeze out the excess liquid. This process can be repeated to build up colour, resulting in more vibrant results. Methods like batik can be used to create patterns on the fabric during the dyeing process by creating resistant areas that are not affected by the dye. When the process is complete, these areas will retain their original colour.
Finishing
Once woven (or knitted) and dyed, the fabric requires finishing. There are several ways to finish fabrics, depending on the desired outcome. Sometimes, the fabric is dyed as a part of the finishing process, rather than before.
Often, especially in flat woven fabric, the textile is singed at the beginning of the finishing stage. This process quickly burns the very top layer of the material, catching any flyaway strands and producing a less “hairy” fabric. However, for some items, such as towels, which are made with looped cotton, this process is not used, as it would ruin the intended texture.
Next, the fabric is desized. Often, a sizing chemical is applied to the cotton before it is woven. This chemical gives the fibres more strength and lubrication, which makes them less likely to snap or break during the weaving process. However, sizing chemicals affect the texture of the product, rendering it hard and stiff. The desizing bath neutralises the chemical, allowing the fabric to soften and become more pliable and absorbent. For fabric that is dyed as part of the finishing process, desizing can make it easier for the fabric to absorb the colours.
The fabric is then cleaned, and may be bleached, particularly for white products. Sometimes, it is also mercerised – this is a process in which caustic soda is used to alter the cotton fibres, rendering them softer and stronger. Mercerised fabric is also less prone to shrinkage, making it ideal for things like bed linen, which are often washed and dried at high temperatures and need to meet standard bed sizes. Not all fabric is mercerised, and you’re more likely to find this process in the production of more expensive textiles.
Finally, the fabric is dried, often in a machine called a stenter. This machine can also apply chemicals to the textiles – things like flame-retardant, waterproof, and wrinkle-resistant coatings are used, depending on the intended outcome.
Cutting and Sewing
At this point, the fabric is ready for use. Depending on the required products, it may be cut into pattern pieces and sewn on industrial sewing machines to create clothing, bedding, toys, and other products.
Some fabric is not made to be sewn on-site. Much of it is wound on to large rolls and used by other companies or sewists who wish to sew their own creations.
Distribution
Finally, the products are ready to be distributed and sold around the world. Garments are sent to warehouses, and then sent on to stores for customers to buy. According to the non-profit Textile Exchange, an estimated 26.2 million tonnes off cotton is produced for textile and clothing use every year.
What a journey! From harvesting to distribution, cotton goes through many processes before landing in our shops in the form of clothing, homeware, accessories, and more. There is no sign that the cotton industry is slowing; instead, sustainability initiatives and modern technology promises more efficiency, with higher outputs and more sustainable, climate-resilient practices at the forefront. Consumption patterns continue to evolve and grow, particularly as the global population expands. These factors indicate a future where cotton remains a vital, yet increasingly sustainable, commodity in our global textile market.
Megan Diehl is a dedicated writer who loves to explore the world of food and agriculture, sharing insights that connect people to the roots of their sustenance. When she isn't writing, Megan can usually be found cooking for her family, creating textile art and gardening.
